In Mexico, Where the Waves Still Win

by JEANNIE RALSTON

Published: April 12, 2013

Planning a return trip to my favorite beach in the world, I was almost as apprehensive as I was excited. The last time I visited Troncones — a town of some 600 people pushed up against the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains on the Pacific coast of Mexico — was five years earlier. At the time, we’d been living in San Miguel de Allende, and we occasionally drove down with our two sons and two dogs. My husband — an avowed “non-beach guy” — and I had come to love this village of farmers and fishermen for its rawness, its drowsy authenticity.

In the intervening years, word got out that Julian Schnabel and Damien Hirst had homes in the area. That’s it, I thought, as I prepared for our vacation this past January. I was picturing all the practitioners of extreme cool who had surely followed in their wake. How was it possible that any place could thrive in the oxymoronic state of both newly chic and genuine? I figured we’d better get there quickly before it became totally overrun and turned into just any other beach town.

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